Manufactured with Pride
To be owned with pleassure.

Some advice on how to run it on steam

You normally will use the hand water pump only to start with for adding the required water into the boiler, once your sight glass show half full or there about, refil the water reservoir so that there is plenty of water in the feed water tank, then fire the gas. NOTE, At this time it is also needed for you to CLOSE the handpump water pipe walve. 

I will STRONGLY advice you to start the run sequence with the mechanical water feed pump enabled. This you do by having water in the tank, and the pump went screw in closed position,, meaning the went screw is in the went hole. Note you may neeed to turn this quite tight for it not to leak. And further more you will have to remember to have the water feed ventilator screw in an "open" position. I have found it best to have this feed water screw VERY open to begin with, until I can see in the water level sight glass that the engine is pumping more water in then it uses out, meaning that the sightglass water level is slightly rising after you have began your run. Then when you note that this is on the rise, be VERY careful and adjust the water regulator valve on the feed pipe into the mechanical pump,, towards the close,, so that the water in the sight glass do not continue to rise, but level off at about 2/3'rd full. when you change the trottle of the engine to give it more or less RPM, you will need to adjust the water feed into the mechanical pump more open or close to try and maintain roughly the water level in the boiler. ALLWAYs make sure you keep on filling after with water into the water reservoir, I normally make a point of this water level to be rather full, just to be on the save side of not running dry. There is no water level sight glass on the water reservoir tank on these models, it is there for needed that you just familiar your self with it and give it a squirt of water rather regularry during run conditions. Wile you are doing all of these adjustments on the feedwater filler speed and the more or less constantly adjustments of the throttle, you will also need to be very aware to open or close the gas for more or less heating of the boiler in orgder to maintain a regular PSI on the gauge. This PSI level, will varie from engine to engine, and how stiff or run in it is. 

I will also STRONGLY recomend that you, as much as possible, are keeping an eye on the general mechanics of the engine, make SURE that the oil feed pump is actually pumping oil by REGULARY lifting the lid on the oil reservoir and check that the pump is moving, I am using Stuart 460 oil on the tank, as this is the one recomended by the builder Mr Pearce. PS; I use lighter compound oil when ruinning it on air. witch I basically are doing only for a 10 minutes time after having steamed it to get the water out of the system and some light oil into the system. in this sequence I also drain the steam chest with the drain pipe/valve you have on the right side of the engine faceing forward. this is the only time in the run of the engine that I have found the need to vent the steam chest.

I have a bad back, more or less on a constant basis, I have there for found that the use of mirrors is a very handy way to keep an eye on all the needed places that is needed to keep any eye on. without having to stand bent over it or jumping all over it constantly. 

Becourse of the constant adjustments needed on the Water feed, Gas heater and the throttle, all to maintain the engine in a balanced run. Wile keeping an eye at everrything else at the time. This isnt done in a juffy to master. First few runs will be a series of trials and errors with heavy heart rate (yours). There is a cupple,, well,,, ONE realy important thing,,,, :

Until you are starting to get more sure what you are doing and how,,,, never forget the WATER LEVEL IN THE BOILER. . . if it run dry in the wawater reservoir, or the pump for some reason dont feed enough water in, becourse you have open the trottle wavle without adjusting the water feed pump level acordingly, the boiler water will emty it self VEERY quickly. ... If anything should happen,, you loose controll of something. FIRST thing you shall then do is the CLOSE THE GAS to the heater. I can guarantie you that this is a thing you will experience in your earlier atempts to run the engine balanced, and it is ALLWAYS advisable to rather close the gas once you loose the upper hand of the model. It is allways easyer to just fire up the gas again after you have rebalanced the water level in the boiler by using the manual handpump. One or more reatempts and resets is better then making damage on the model of some sort.

Burrell Road Locomotive

Burrell Road Locomotive.



Tony Pearce design.


The Road Locomotive. The first of my Markie's models to come in my possession and kind of a learning process for me. These are ultimately handmade engines and pose some very nice hand craft in their finishing details. Be course these are handmade in detail, none of them are entirely the same, so in some sense a rather unique engine model. This isn't a easy model to master, it is in fact quite a handful to run on steam, so, definitely not everyone's cup of tea. It is completely unsuitable for children to operate and so must not in any sense be seen as a toy of any kind. This is a serious engine model for the enthusiastic collector. Be course it is all hand made, The engine will pose some initial problems in it's first times of use. This engine was no exception, It had a rather smooth first and second run, but needed a lot of steam pressure on the tank to run at even speeds. As commonalty are with engines of this type, it has smooth it self out some since then but still feel rather tight. A very keen eye is needed for the water level, the engine wile running, will need more or less constant supply of new water from the feed pumps. If you use the hand pump, this is a more or less constant job, wile also needing to over see all other aspects of the engine. When using the gas fire option, some adjustments of the flame is also needed for time to time. This in order to keep a more or less steady steam pressure level in the tank. At the beginning this had to be around 60psi but it run quite easy now on about 40psi. Be course of the work involved in running this engine model, the reward of master the necessary task's is highly joy able.

   The cost of this engine model order and built in England, transported to Norway with import customs tax of 25% rule out any large quantum buys of the Markie brand. It also rule out all but the most keen enthusiastic collectors. So, the main question is that respect has to be if this model are something worth the price of collecting it. From my point of view, that is a definite yes. The 1:10 scale (1,1/8"- foot) Markie design Burrell road locomotive is to my subjective view one of the prettiest mobile steam engines I know of. I find it very eye appealing.

1: The main steam regulator
2: The mechanical water pump ventilator valve
3: The mechanical water pump main water regulator
4: The manual hand pump water regulator valve
5: The water hand pump handle
6: The air pressure regulator valve
1: The whistle handle, on/off
2: Steering wheel
3: Fire box door for optional coal fire
4: Rear wheel brakes
5: Gear lever, forward/backward
6: High gear
7: Low gear
8: Main steam valve, on/off
1: Steam chest drain valve
2: Mechanical oil pump/tank
Requirements for this model are: High grade steam oil 460/680 compound, Bering oil 220 compound, pure water, Propane / Butane mix 30-70 Gas, Model grain size coal (for coal fire).
Aditional recommended requirements are : Brasso polish, 556 spray, small spanner key 3,4 & 5mm + Torx nr 5. Super fiber cloth, cotton sticks and a colossal amounts of spare time.
Scale = 1:10 (1,1/8"- foot).
Weight = 15.2 kg. (without water). Ca 16kg with optimal water level on steam and belly reservoir tank.
Length = 55 cm. With canopy.
Height = 35cm.
Max width = 33cm.

Burrell & Sons
Special Scenic Showman Engine

1:10 Scale. Markie Special Scenic Showman engine.
This is modeled on the largest C. Burrell & Son's engines ever made.
It is also the largest model that Markie make at the moment. A very nice model I think this is.

This 1:10 scale showman is in most means enormous compared to anything i have with the exeption of the other 1:10 markie models presently in my collection. The Special Scenic Showman engine model weigh in the better part of 20 kilos fully loaded with water and is 25" long, or just about 65cm. With the caravan attached the entire equipage is 1 meter 30 cm long with a combined weight of nearly 30 kilos.
It is a model that I think very highly off. it has a great deal of personal tutch and handsome created details.

Burrell & Sons
TE model 1879 Plough Engine

1:10 Scale. Markie plough engine.
C. Burrell & Sons mod. TE Plough 1879.
Modeled after the last two remaining Burrell plough engines in exsistence at Stowmarket, England.

Made over a considerable length of time, an enormous amount of time and effort went into the making of this particular engine model. It is the first Markie model designed and equipped with superheated steam. The mechanism moves freely with hardly any notice to the models heavy weight parts. The flywheel alone is 5 inches in diameter and all part of it made out of massive steel. that peace alone should easy weight half a kilo or more i think. The engine by it self is very nearly 25 inches long, 64cm and 15 1/2 inches tall. Gas tank is extra.
It is without a dobt among the prettyest built and most handsomely crafted model engines that I have in my collection today. I love this model, so much.. Yes, it has the "little Markie wobble" in the fly weel,, they all have, a feature or rather a limitation in the production prosess that Mr Pearce has not been able to rid out with his basic production methodes and equipment. Yes, it has a less then easy way to emty the tank of water. But, I cant help it, I think it is one marvel of design. The quality of the work on each and every peace this model is made up of is totally mindblowing for a person like me. The parts were prodused over a long time in 2012-13 and the actual building and adjusting of the model alone, took Mr Peace way over one month to compleate.

Markie Little Gem Roller

1:16 Scale, Markie Little Gem series Road Roller engine.
My first and so far only 3/4 inch Markie model. the Gem series is very much simpler models in design then their large cusins, but it does not mean that the design or the build details are any lesser. I absolute love this model. it is also a great deal easyer to handle in the physical sence as it is only the fraction of the weight of the larger ones. Originally these models as adverticed on the Markie web page is suplied with a spirit burner, but this one has a gas burner and tank fitted for much better steam production. It is like Markies are, a little nut to crack on the run and have personality in spades.
I ran into some technical difficoulties on this, but that have now been solved, but resulted in a slightly different take on the lubricator from the original ones showed on the photos here.
This is a highly recomended model and as the first of my Roller machines, a win win from day one.

Balance Plough

1:10 Scale. Balance Plough.
Modeled on the C. Burrell & Sons's largest built balance plough from the later parts of the 1870's and onwards. The 6 cut broad balance plough are in 1:10 scale and messure 0.7 meters from one end to the other. It is very accurate to the original design and features the same controll mecanisms that the real plough had in it's day. Both the stearing and the regulating of the ploughing depth are fully working features of this model.

Showman Caravan

1:10 Scale. Scenic Showman caravan.
This caravan is made by Tony Pearce on special comission for use with the Showman engine. Tony, normally does not build these models, but sell them as self building/painting kits. If i am not mistaken he did mention to me once that he is discontinuing the model due to pour sales so I am very glad to have one, specially since this is made by him. You may notice that this is a rather bland and two collored affair, with few decoor details on the contrast to how these models looks like in real size condition. I have plans to comission decoor paint on this model made by a local painter/artist here, but haven't yet found the urge nor the stamina to hand it over. It is so far just another one of my numerous plans for things to do in the future, near or distant.